12 Sep 2023

“Technology will allow us to improve many processes and behaviors in garment care.”

Interview with Alejandro Laquidain, Vice President of GINETEX, the International Association for Textile Care Labelling.
This interview is part of a series promoted by Girbau LAB and SGSC, aimed at delving into the use phase of textiles as a key factor for a more circular fashion industry.

Clothing labeling is currently the only tool we have to know its composition and care details—two key elements for extending its lifespan and managing its end-of-life properly. That is why, in our series of interviews in collaboration with Girbau LAB on circularity in the textile industry, we couldn’t miss the opportunity to speak with GINETEX, the International Association for Textile Care Labeling. We spoke with Alejandro Laquidain, Vice President of the organization, to learn how garment labeling influences its life cycle.

– Alejandro, what is GINETEX’s mission?

GINETEX was founded in 1963 in Paris, and its main mission is to define and promote the system of textile care labeling symbols. Ultimately, the goal is to standardize information about textile product care and make it easier for customers to use.
Visually, this labeling system consists of five pictograms that are widely recognized. Although they may seem static, they continuously evolve according to technological advancements in the textile industry.

 

“GINETEX’s goal is to standardize information on textile product care and make it easier for customers to use.”

 

– Why was there a need to create and standardize these pictograms?

A hundred years ago, clothing was made from a few natural fibers, and everyone knew how to care for them to maximize their durability. With the emergence and popularization of synthetic and artificial fibers, along with their combinations, garment care—especially at home—became more complex. Some manufacturers started providing information on how to wash and treat garments, but each used different language and symbols. GINETEX managed to condense all this information into five pictograms, significantly extending the lifespan of garments.

– What are these pictograms?

There are five pictograms, with various variations, indicating how manufacturers recommend users care for their garments—specifically regarding washing, bleaching, drying, ironing, and professional cleaning, in that order. They are usually attached as a sewn-in label to garments, helping consumers maintain their clothing properly.

GINETEX

– Who is responsible for proper labeling?

GINETEX labeling is voluntary, meaning using our symbols is not mandatory. We simply strive to ensure their correct use because we know it is relevant. In fact, it must be very relevant because manufacturers and brands frequently consult us on how to properly use the system, which includes over 100 combinations.

– Is the labeling system international?

Almost, but not entirely. GINETEX currently consists of 22 member countries, each with its own national committee. However, GINETEX symbols are used almost worldwide, except in three countries.

– All except three?

Yes. The United States and Australia use similar but distinct labeling systems. We have ongoing discussions with both to reach standardization agreements. Meanwhile, South Korea operates independently.

– Do consumers pay attention to labeling?

Yes, increasingly so. One of GINETEX’s roles is to gauge public interest and concerns regarding garment care. To do this, we conduct regular surveys and develop tools to address consumer concerns.

One example is Clevercare.info, a website where people can find detailed information on how to extend the lifespan of their clothing through proper washing and care, always with a focus on environmental sustainability.

clevercare

For more information: Clevercare.info

A website and app developed by GINETEX that provides all the necessary information to care for clothing in the most eco-friendly and sustainable way possible.

Users can search by garment type, fabric, stain type, etc.

– The use phase of garments is one of the most environmentally impactful. How can we improve sustainability in this phase?

All the information on Clevercare.info helps answer this question. But to start, it is essential that users check clothing labels and follow the manufacturer’s care instructions.

Other simple yet often overlooked actions include washing garments only when necessary, air-drying them (in most of Spain, using a dryer is unnecessary!), and not confusing airing out clothes with washing them. Some jeans manufacturers have been saying for years that freezing denim is better for hygiene than washing them at 30 degrees.

– What about microplastics?

This is a clear example of why knowing how to wash different types of fabrics correctly is important. On Clevercare.info, we provide detailed information on this topic, based on fiber types and garment categories.

– How will GINETEX labeling integrate with the Digital Product Passport (DPP)?

There is still much to discuss. In reality, EURATEX manages this at the European level, and we are on its board of directors. However, GINETEX is a pioneer in labeling standardization, and we will undoubtedly contribute to this process.

A QR code, RFID, or similar technology will likely be used to integrate and unify all garment information, including composition, traceability, and care instructions. Technology will allow us to improve many processes and behaviors in garment care that currently seem like science fiction.

 

“It’s not about Europe imposing regulations and forcing others to adopt them, but about finding a way to agree on the same criteria internationally.”

 

 

– Can you give an example?

One of the basic garment care principles is separating laundry by color. But who hasn’t accidentally mixed a black sock with a load of whites, ending up with everything gray? With future technology, integrated with the Digital Product Passport and home appliances, next-generation washing machines will be able to detect such mix-ups before starting the wash cycle.

– Considering the EU’s strategy for textile circularity and sustainability, has GINETEX considered adding new symbols for repair, reuse, or garment end-of-life?

Adding new symbols to the labeling system is always a complex issue. GINETEX’s primary mission is to ensure consumers understand and correctly apply washing instructions. Introducing more symbols could sometimes complicate educational efforts and hinder standardization.
However, we are working closely with European initiatives like the Digital Product Passport, and it is likely that incorporating recyclability or repair instructions will lead to new label symbols. For now, this topic remains open for discussion.

– Does GINETEX have any involvement with labels indicating garment composition or “Made in” origins?

No. The “Made in” label is often manipulated. The Digital Product Passport will help address this issue by enforcing traceability standards.
Regarding garment composition, we have no say in that area. However, care labels depend directly on a garment’s composition, so many manufacturers seek our advice—especially when dealing with embellishments or accessories that complicate labeling.

– One last question: Why are some clothing labels bigger than the garments themselves, filled with excessive information?

Ah, the “label bibles”! This happens due to a lack of standardized criteria. In some countries, garment care instructions are provided in written form, which then gets translated into dozens of languages. The same applies to product composition and other details.
Common labeling standards and pictograms are crucial in addressing this issue. Additionally, the technology we mentioned earlier will significantly simplify labeling in the future.

Thank you, Alejandro, and the entire GINETEX team.

This interview is part of a discussion series led by Girbau LAB and So Good So Cute, aimed at fostering reflection and shedding light on key aspects of circularity in the textile industry. See other published articles